Rio Has My Heart
Leblon Beach in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
A week in Rio during Brazilian Carnival was the best way to bring in the last year of my 20’s.
If you ask me, Brazil is the best place in the world. Specifically Rio de Janeiro stole my heart. What prompted me to travel to Rio was the fact that they have the biggest carnival (or Carnaval) celebration in the world. Also carnival in many countries typically falls on or around my birthday, February 14th. I decided in April of 2022 that I wanted to bring in my next birthday there, and I celebrated like never before.
Brazilian Carnaval can only be described as a combination of halloween, a pride parade, a music festival, and Comic Con all in one.
First I feel that a quick explanation of what carnival actually is and why so many countries have their own version of it including the United States (Mardi Gras in New Orleans) is necessary. Carnival or Carnaval is defined as, “the merrymaking and festivity that takes place in many Roman Catholic countries in the last days and hours before the Lenten season.” During carnival you pretty much eat, drink, dance, and party. It’s certainly something to look forward to.
With only a week in Rio having so much to explore and so many parties to attend, this trip was exhausting! My partner and I arrived on the 14th of February. The first day of Carnaval was on February 17th. So we only had 3 days to experience all that Rio had to offer before completely dedicating ourselves to attending as many blocos or Brazilian Carnaval street parties as possible. The first thing we did after checking into our hotel, Vogue Square Fashion Hotel by Lenny Niemeyer , was hang glide!
I know what you’re thinking and no. Hang gliding is not scary. It isn’t scary until you reach the top of the hill you are supposed to jump off of. Just seeing how far above you are from the tops of the very tall buildings that were just towering over you a few minuetes ago, is certainly nerve racking. Although I was determined to do this I wasn’t confident that my legs would take me where I needed them to. Luckily a professional is tied to you just like a sky diving experience. But I would be lying if I told you I wasn’t actually scared to death from the moment of take off until at least half way through the experience. With that being said, I would do it again and probably be just as afraid. But the view and the free feeling that comes with the experience is unreal.
That evening we had dinner at what I would probably call one of the coolest restaurants in the world. Marius Degustare is the most unique restaurant I’ve ever seen. Set up like a traditional Brazilian buffet, you select your own sides while waiters walk up to your table and ask you which cuts of their endless supply of fish and meats you would like. Marius Degustare is breathtaking. Not one piece of wall or ceiling space is free of some kind of decoration. I am not exaggerating when I tell you there was an antique car on one of the walls. Imagine that! The bathroom had an overwhelming scent of coffee because the floor was covered in coffee beans. It was also pretty cool that they ask you which country you are from before seating you so they can place your nation’s flag on your table. It was interesting to see where the people seated around us were from. And yes, the food was as wonderful as you would expect. With so many selections and the buffet style of the restaurant my only recommendation is to show up hungry and try whatever you can possibly fit into your stomach.
On our first full day we decided to visit all of the main attractions that Rio had to offer. It was quite a feat but we pulled it off successfully! Our first stop after breakfast at the hotel was the famous staircase that everyone associates with Brazil, Escadaria Selarón. I suggest getting there early in the morning if you want to experience the steps without a crowd of people. It’s a public staircase so you do not need to worry about any hours of operation. They truly are beautiful and are a lot taller than they seem. They are located in my favorite neighborhood, Santa Teresa. After the stairs we went straight to one of the 7 wonders of the world. The Christ the Redeemer statue. It sits atop Corcovado Mountain. It truly is high up so you will need to take the tram (trem do Corcovado) up the hill. The short ride uphill is a beautiful one. Once you finally get to the “top” of the hill, you still have to take an elevator and then more stairs. We arrived around 11AM and there were people everywhere. So many people wanted to see the statue and the crowd never let up. But we didn’t care! The view from the statue was actually more intriguing than the statue itself. Regarding the statue it was so cool to see it but I don’t feel the need to go back. I do, however, believe it is a site that you should’t miss out on.
Lunch was next and I chose to Aprazivel which was also a 10/10 rating in my book. It felt like we were in a beautiful adult tree house. The drinks were strong and sweet and the food was top quality.
The next stop was Sugarlaof! If you’re not a fan of heights I would not recommend this. Much like Christ the Redeemer I felt like I was in the clouds because we were up so high. The cable cars are there to transport you to to each level. What we didn’t expect was for there to be shops, music, vendors, and food at each level. You can make a day of Sugarloaf by itself if you’d like! I was simply in awe at the end of the day seeing all of these views and images that I have only seen in photos, movies, and music videos. Experiences like these can feel so surreal.
Next, I absolutely recommend brunch at Parque Lage. It’s technically a nationl park but I was there for brunch in front of their iconic fountain pool. You may bake out in the hot Brazilian sun as not all of the tables have umbrellas. But it was so worth it. The eggs were the fluffiest I have ever eaten and the drinks were perfect. It’s also directly across the street from their unbelievable botanical garden, Jardim Botânico. I am personally not a plant person and seriously lack a green thumb but it was undeniable how breathtaking their plants, trees, flowers, and ponds were. A beautiful sight to behold, for sure.
Also, before I forget! if you’re looking for a romantic or just a great quiet dinner experience, Ocyá, is perfect. It’s a bit difficult to find and it is only accessible via a tiny commuter boat reserved for residents and restaurant workers and patrons but it was a great restaurant that was off the beaten path. Refreshing.
Now, for the Carnival experience. I’ll start by saying that there is no shortage of blocos to attend. And yes, they really do look like they do in the pictures. There are people everywhere! Some of the parties are parades and some are just huge crowds of people eating, drinking, and dancing in the streets. If I were to use 1 word to describe the parade parties, I would use the word “magical.” The energy of the people is insane! They samba while walking through the streets. I saw elderly couples, toddlers, teenagers, and all ages in between. They sing songs as a crowd for the entire duration of the parade. People are hanging from floats, gates, standing on sidewalks, blocking the streets. They were so… joyful.
A little more about these blocos. You can wear ANYTHING and I mean that. I saw a lot of people dressed up as Wednesday Adams (of all the characters), Spiderman, and other superheroes. I saw women and men dressed in bikini bathing suits with fishnet stockings and angel or devil wings. Some were wearing nun habits. Some were wearing tutus. The list goes on! The lines of gender norms and stereotypes were completely blurred. It was all about fun! Nothing more and nothing less. People also painted their faces, glued on body jewels, and smeared body glitter all over! There are no limits to what you can put on your body.
We participated in about 3 days worth of Carnaval activities. They last all morning and all night so you can’t miss them. Brazilians clearly don’t sleep for this entire week. You’ve been warned. It’s also quite common to kiss strangers. I was surprised by this and the fact they they come up to you and ASK if they can kiss you. I felt so… respected. I also felt safe. They will kiss you on the lips or on the cheek. But be mindful that some may slip you a little tongue. I learned that the hard way… But you know the age old saying. “When in Rome…” or in this case, “When at Brazilian Carnaval!”
Finally we must discuss their beautiful beaches. First of all, every day is a beach day. And to Brazilians, all bodies are beach bodies. They also take their tan lines very seriously. It was explained to us that tan lines are a badge of honor and they love them. I can also confirm that the “Brazilians are beautiful” stereotype in true. It was infuriating. They all had beautiful skin, hair, and bodies. And if you happen to not have the perfect body, who cares! I sensed no judgement at all. The elderly men and women had on bikinis and speedos just like the teenagers and young adults. It was so amazing to see! And if you’re not too busy gazing at bodies that inspire you to purchase a gym membership immediately, you will find yourslf gazing at the magnificent green hills that are in the backdrop of every beach photo. They are everywhere and sometimes you can’t see how far they reach because of the infamous Brazilian fog. One of my favorite parts about their beaches is that the food, drinks, and shopping come to you. I personally love a beach with personality, meaning I love solicitors and food vendors. As long as they aren’t pushy or persistent, it’s something that I welcome and look forward to. I can spend more money on a beach than I can in a mall! You don’t have to look for a beach chair or bring your own. You simply walk onto he beach and before you can blink there is a designatied vendor asking you how many chairs and umbrellas you need to rent. I believe 2 chairs and 1 umbrella came up to about 5 USD, maybe less. They will also fulfill drink orders for you and other vendors will offer you snacks. If you happen to miss one, don’t worry. There will be 5 more vendors right behind them selling either fresh corn with salt and butter, globo (a crunchy sweet or savory chip that has a pork rind texture), or tea. Also, you have not officially visited Rio unless you have a caipirinha made with their special Cachaça rum.
So, yes Brazil was a trip that I will never forget. I started my 29th year with the biggest bang and I will visit Rio 1 million more times if given the chance. There are endless things to do, even without Carnaval festivities. Plus the city is enormous. 1,000/10 I highly recommend.
P.S. Credit cards are widely accepted everywhere. Even the street and beach vendors! They walk around with small handheld card machines and do not get upset when you don’t have cash. They may charge you more but for the convenience, it’s well worth the extra fee!
Also Uber is your friend! They are extremely convenient and affordable due to our exchange rate. The app functions the exact same way it does in the U.S. Just be advised that most of the drivers only speak Portuguese. They are still very kind though and some will practice their English with you. Embrace it!
